By: Sonia Simón
The beautiful and thriving city built into a valley in the central part of the Andes Mountains has so much more to be said for itself than it’s notoriously dark history of cartels and Pablo Escobar. Over the past 20 years it has transformed its name as a hub for drug trafficking and civil unrest to a tourist-friendly urban wonder that should be on the top of everyone’s bucket list.
Also know as “La ciudad de eternal primavera” translated as “the city of eternal spring,” Medellín boasts a nearly perfect climate of sunny and an average of 75 degrees all year round. Centrally located in Colombia’s Antioquia region, Medellín is notorious for it’s Paisa culture. “Paisas,” or the people of Medellín, can be known for their generosity and overwhelming friendliness. You won’t get through a taxi ride without your driver asking you if your “amañada,” or in other words feel welcome in the city. Locals are extremely proud to be from this boasting city and will go out of their way to make sure foreigners are taken care of and feel safe in their time here.
The food, music, cultural events, public transportation, scenic beauty, and most importantly the people are more than enough reason to give this city a chance and see for yourself it has truly transformed itself from what the media has made it out to be over the past 20 years. With that said, I will go into more detail on what you can’t miss in the city…
Where to stay:
Medellín populates nearly 2.5 million habitants lending itself to have many distinct zones within the city. In terms of where to stay, there are many options to choose from and there is no wrong choice thanks to easy and accessible public transportation. Poblado is a very touristy and upscale area of Medellín and although it’s not my first choice it is a great spot for visitors who want to stay within their comfort zone when they first get to the city. My recommended lodging in this area would be Hostal Galeria Estación.
Otherwise, I would highly recommend staying in Floresta, where I later stayed at during my house hunting days, it is a very lax and less touristy area right off of the B-Line of the metro. I recommend Yellow House hostel, an adorable and cozy home made into a hostel with two friendly dogs and cheap beers, it is less than a five minute walk to the metro. My other highly recommended spot would be Hostal Ondas, a few minutes walk from Yellow House this hostel is beautifully schemed, has excellent food and drinks, and hosts many language exchanges or events throughout the week to meet fellow travelers.
It is a common misconception that the city center would be the most centrally located place to stay, but as a foreigner I do not recommend staying in the center or hanging out too late at night. There are plenty of other areas that are safer and more convenient to stay.
Where to dance salsa:
Medellín has a thriving nightlife and is a great spot for those who want to break out their dancing shoes, especially those who love salsa. I go dancing all throughout the week and will break it down simply.
Son Habana: Located in Laureles/Estadio near la 70, this is my favorite spot for Salsa. They have Wednesday nights are free entry, not too crowded and that’s the night a lot of local dancing instructors come out to dance. Otherwise, Thursday through Saturday night they have (excellent) live music with Cuban flare, it’s much more packed and the cover is 10 Mil or roughly 3 USD. It is a guaranteed good time and authentic ambience.
El Tibiri: Located on la 70, this underground salsa joint is small, hot, and pure salsa spot unlike any other in the city. It is a great spot to show off your moves and meet locals without breaking the bank, there’s no cover and beers are reasonably priced. But get there early or make it the first stop of the night; it gets extremely hot and sweaty and there’s limited table space to give your feet a rest.
Buena Vista: Located just a few minutes walking from the famous Parque Lleras in Poblado, Buena Vista is an upstairs bar with two levels. Downstairs is a small and quaint salsa spot and upstairs is a rooftop putting out Reggaeton and Latin classics. Drinks can be quite expensive and it’s a hit or miss if it’s busy, if you’re out in Poblado and want to try some salsa without paying a cover I recommend making a stop in. They also often have a small group playing live music on the weekends.
Cuchitril: This bar is in Guayabal not really located to any other bars, so if you decide to make it out it should be your only stop for the night. One of my favorite spots, this spot is made up of two bars, one side salsa and the other (Bombay) typically Crossover and Rock. Cover is 12 mil, however you get a beer included and access to both bars. It is usually only locals and a great spot for dancing salsa, going out with a group of friends or going to meet new dancing partners. They also often put on events or have live music, check their Facebook to stay updated!
Eslabon Prendido: This is the spot on a Tuesday evening. Live music and a small and busting dancing space, make your way to el Centro for a hot weekday night. Cover is 10 mil pesos but it’s worth it to get the authentic salsa experience you’ve always wanted.
If you don’t know salsa yet that’s okay, there are many salsa schools and the best way to learn is to go out and give it a shot, and many salsa spots have a free class throughout the week! For taking lessons I recommend either Euphoria dance school in Laureles, DanceFree in Poblado, or Santo Baile in Envigado. Although do prepare yourself to cough up some cash for those new moves.
Food you can’t miss:
Paisa food is hearty and loaded with carbs, but can be relatively cheap and with some ají really delicious. I highly recommend venturing out and trying some local dishes.
The Bandeja Paisa; a huge platter of ground meat, sausage, pork rind, rice, beans, egg, avocado, arepa, platano, and sometimes a mini salad; it’s the local specialty and for good reason. It is basic but it’s delicious, and will leave you full for the whole day. I also recommend trying;
Ajiaco, a Colombian version of chicken noodle soup Mondongo a traditional tripe soup (if you’re feeling adventurous)
Sancocho a broth based soup that tastes like it’s straight out of abuela’s kitchen.
With that said, my favorite food and drink in Medellín is found on the street. In popular areas or parks you can find nearly anything your heart desires from local vendors. My personal favorites include;
Any type of empanada, a deep fried pastry usually loaded with meats, cheese or potatoes these bad boys are the perfect late night food and usually every stand has a million sauces to accompany it.
Micheladas: Beer mixed with fresh lime juice and a salted rim. I find them best tasting with an aguila or lighter beer, this drink is super refreshing any time of day and usually costs no more than 4 Mil pesos.
Jugo de Guarapo: Fresh sugar cane juice, this beverage can be seen all over the place and is perfect for a hot day in the valley. Make sure you can see the sugar cane grinder machine at the stand for the authentic stuff, this semi sweet juice will hit the spot I promise.
Arepas: the Colombian specialty, these corn patties can be found everywhere and in many forms. Alone they don’t have too much flavor, so I recommend stuffed arepas with any kind of meat and sauce and it’s the perfect late night snack. Or arepas de chocolo, made with a sweet corn flour, these arepas are delicious topped or stuffed with cheese and even a drizzle of condensed milk (don’t knock it ‘til you try it).
Last bits of advice:
There is no wrong time to come to Medellín, however if your calendar is free I highly recommend coming in August for their biggest festival Feria de las Flores, you can enjoy numerous free concerts and events and be blown away by the flower displays during the silletero parade. It is one the most beautiful international events I have ever seen. Or any time in the month of December, Colombians love to celebrate and the entire month of December is like a local party with Paisas and the city is beautifully lit for the holidays.
Learn some Spanish before you come, nowadays there are plenty of apps and websites that offer free help learning languages, most locals do not know very much English and it will save you a lot of trouble and confusion if you can learn the basics before you come.
Medellín is an urban hub and is developing every day. It’s transformation has been miraculous and it is now a safe and exciting place to explore if you want a taste of Latin culture in a lively setting. Paisas will leave you in good hands and you will leave knowing a new and beautiful culture without breaking the bank.
